New progress and challenges in the diagnosis and treatment of cosmetic allergy-related adverse reactions / 中华预防医学杂志

In China, the current standard for cosmetic adverse reactions related skin disease (GB/T 17149.1-1997) was jointly issued by the Ministry of Health and the State Bureau of Technical Supervision in 1997, cosmetic-allergic adverse reactions include allergic contact dermatitis and photo-allergic contact dermatitis according to this standard. The increasing use and changes in cosmetic ingredients or formula lead to a significant increase for the incidence of adverse reactions as the cosmetics industry is developing rapidly in the last 20 years. In the meantime, the clinical manifestations have become more diverse. In recent years, there have been many reports on the special manifestations for cosmetic allergy and allergen test, which provide a reference for the subsequent improvement of the diagnosis and prevention.

Report on a case of significant increase in urine mercury due to excessive mercury in cosmetics / 中华劳动卫生职业病杂志

Mercury is highly toxic and can be absorbed through skin contact. From December 5, 2020 to February 16, 2021, occupational disease laboratory of the First People's Hospital of Baiyin received 30 urine mercury test samples from a beauty salon in Lanzhou City. The test results showed that 28 samples exceeded the normal value (normal value: 4 μg/g Cr) . 15 patients were treated with sodium dimertopropyl sulfonate for mercury removal and tiopron for liver protection, and the prognosis was good.

Avaliação da composição e rotulagem de fotoprotetores labiais comercializados em farmácias / Evaluation of the composition and labeling of lip photo protectors marketed in pharmacies

Introdução: os efeitos deletérios da radiação ultravioleta (UV) sobre os tecidos labiais podem desencadear diversas lesões, inclusive de caráter maligno. A utilização de produtos fotoprotetores tem sido a melhor opção contra os efeitos nocivos dessa radiação. Diversas marcas de fotoprotetores labiais (FPL) estão disponíveis no mercado, onde o consumo é diretamente influenciado por qualidade e preço. Objetivo: analisar e comparar FPLs disponíveis em farmácias quanto à composição, ao preço e às características de rotulagem, segundo regulamentações da ANVISA. Metodologia: foi realizado estudo descritivo, que avaliou FPLs, quanto a FPS, indicação, constituintes químicos, FPUVA, preço e rótulo. Informações sobre as substâncias presentes e suas funções foram obtidas no INCI (Comissão Europeia), e os filtros solares foram identificados na INN (Organização Mundial da Saúde). As avaliações de rotulagem foram baseadas nas Resoluções da Diretoria Colegiada da ANVISA de nº 30/12, nº 7/15 e nº 69/16. Resultados: dezessete FPLs foram avaliados. Cinco apresentaram FPS 15; três, FPS 20; seis, FPS 30; e três, FPS 50. Dez filtros UV foram identificados, estando o Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate presente em maior número de FPLs. Doze produtos informaram ter proteção UVA. As características dos rótulos se encontravam dentro das determinações da ANVISA, na grande maioria dos casos. Houve alta variação do preço. Conclusão: a partir deste estudo, foi possível conhecer mais sobre a composição e as características dos FPL, principalmente sobre FPS e FPUVA, bem como se estão de acordo com as normas estabelecidas pela ANVISA, propiciando um maior conhecimento dos produtos que estão sendo comercializados.

Introduction: the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on lip tissues can trigger several lesions, including malignant ones. The use of photoprotective products has been the best option against the harmful effects of this radiation. Several brands of lip sunscreens (FPL) are available on the market, where consumption is directly influenced by quality and price. Objective: to analyze and compare SPFs available in pharmacies in terms of composition, price and labeling characteristics, according to ANVISA regulations. Methodology: a descriptive study was carried out, which evaluated FPLs, in terms of SPF, indication, chemical constituents, PPD, price and label. Information on the substances present and their functions were obtained from the INCI (European Commission), and the sunscreens were identified from the INN (World Health Organization). The labeling evaluations were based on the Resolutions of the Collegiate Board of Directors of ANVISA No. 30/12, No. 7/15 and No. 69/16. Results: seventeen FPLs were evaluated. Five had SPF 15; three, SPF 20; six, SPF 30; and three, SPF 50. Ten UV filters were identified, with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate present in the highest number of FPLs. Twelve products reported having UV protection. The characteristics of the labels were within the determinations of ANVISA, in the vast majority of cases. There was a high price variation. Conclusion: from this study, it was possible to know more about the composition and characteristics of FPL, mainly about SPF and UV, as well as whether they are in accordance with the standards established by ANVISA, providing a greater knowledge of the products that are being marketed.

Fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos: percepção de profissionais sobre melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital / Photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics: perception of professionals on the improvement of flaccidity and genital hyperpigmentation

INTRODUÇÃO: A fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos despigmentantes e rejuvenescedores tem mostrado benefícios na melhora da flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital em mulheres. OBJETIVO: O objetivo do estudo foi descrever a percepção de profissionais acerca da melhora de flacidez e hiperpigmentação genital tratados por fotobiomodulação associada a cosméticos. MÉTODO: O estudo evidenciou percepção de melhora no aspecto geral, flacidez e pigmentação genital com uso da terapêutica proposta. RESULTADOS: Amostra composta por dez mulheres submetidas a quatro sessões de tratamento. A análise dos profissionais foi mediante a comparação dos registos fotográficos de antes e depois do tratamento da região genital. CONCLUSÃO: No entanto, é necessário que novos modelos de avaliação para evidenciar a efetividade terapêutica para tratamentos de flacidez e discromias na região genital sejam desenvolvidos ampliando assim os métodos de avaliação para além da percepção de melhora do aspecto geral.

INTRODUCTION: Photobiomodulation associated with depigmenting and rejuvenating cosmetics has shown benefits in improving sagging and genital hyperpigmentation in women. OBJECTIVE: The aim of the study was to describe the perception of professionals about the improvement of sagging and genital hyperpigmentation treated by photobiomodulation associated with cosmetics. METHOD: The study showed a perception of improvement in the general appearance, sagging and genital pigmentation with the use of the proposed therapy. RESULTS: Sample composed of ten women submitted to four treatment sessions. The analysis of the professionals was by comparing the photographic records of before and after the treatment of the genital region. CONCLUSION: However, it is necessary that new evaluation models to evidence the therapeutic effectiveness for treatments of flaccidity and dyschromias in the genital region are developed, thus expanding the evaluation methods beyond the perception of improvement in the general aspect.

Cecropia pachystachya Trécul: a promising ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics

Abstract Because it promotes the lightening of pigment spots, tyrosinase inhibition is one of the mechanisms of depigmenting cosmetic products. Considering the adverse effects produced by synthetic depigmenting actives, the search for new therapeutic options is desirable, and plant extracts are possible candidates for hyperpigmentation treatment. Glycolic extracts of Cecropia pachystachya Trécul are, therefore, the focus of this study. Its chemical characterization, antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition, and cell viability were evaluated. Glycolic extracts were obtained by macerating the leaves of C. pachystachya in grain alcohol and glycerin or propylene glycol. Both had a similar chemical constitution, the glycerin being more efficient in concentrating phenolic compounds and flavonoids. Analyses by UHPLC-MS detected quinic acid, chlorogenic acid isomers, proanthocyanidin dimers type B and C, catechin/epicatechin, orientin/isoorientin, isoorientin 2"-O-xyloside, vitexin/isovitexin, and rutin. 5-O-caffeoylquinic acid was then quantified was then quantified, with predominance in the extract produced with propylene glycol. These extracts showed a high antioxidant capacity by the method of DPPH, ß-carotene, and nitric oxide. As for depigmenting activity, both extracts were able to inhibit tyrosinase. Cell viability assay also revealed that the extracts could safely be used in concentrations of ≤ 125 µg/mL. Thus, this study demonstrated for the first time that the glycolic extracts of C. pachystachya have promising chemical and biological characteristics for the development of a multifunctional cosmetic with antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibition activities

Quality of cosmetics with active caffeine in cream and gel galenic bases prepared by compounding pharmacies / Qualidade de cosméticos com cafeína ativa em bases galênicas em creme e gel preparadas por farmácias de manipulação

As there is a great scarcity of studies on the importance of good compounding practices in the preparation of cosmetics, this study aimed to evaluate the quality control of cosmetics with active ingredient caffeine for the treatment of cellulite prepared by magistrals pharmacies. Microbiological analyzes, pH determination, color measurement, quantification of the percentage of the active ingredient caffeine and viscosity in creams and gels with 5% of the active ingredient caffeine were performed. In the microbiological analysis, the presence of molds and yeasts was verified above the permitted level according to the Brazilian pharmacopoeia. The pH decreased over time, contributing to the formulations becoming more acidic. In the color parameters, it was found that pharmacy F4 showed a brownish color, both for the gel and for the cream. The percentage of caffeine was within specifications in all formulations and the viscosity remained unchanged during the shelf life of the samples. It is important that the compounding pharmacies demand more effectively the commitment of the team, as well as the analysis of the raw material according to the microbiological control regulations to translate into the quality of the products prepared by the pharmacies and favor the consumer in the effective objective that the product you want to achieve.

Como há uma grande escassez de estudos sobre a importância de boas práticas de manipulação na elaboração de cosméticos, o presente estudo teve como objetivo avaliar o controle de qualidade de cosméticos com princípio ativo cafeína para o tratamento de celulite, elaborados por farmácias de manipulação de Campo Mourão. Foram realizadas análises microbiológicas, determinação do pH, mensuração da coloração, quantificação da porcentagem do princípio ativo cafeína e viscosidade em cremes e geís com 5% do princípio ativo cafeína. Nas análises microbiológicas foi verificada a presença de bolores e leveduras acima do pemitido segundo a farmacopéia brasileira. O pH diminuiu ao longo do tempo, contribuindo para que as formulações ficassem mais ácidas. Nos parâmetros de cor averiguou-se que a farmácia F4 apresentou uma coloração amarronzada, tanto para o gel quanto para o creme. A porcentagem de cafeína estava dentro das especificações em todas as formulações e a viscosidade se manteve inalterada durante o prazo de validade das amostras. Com o propósito de um melhor preparo magistral é importante que as farmácias de manipulação exijam de forma mais eficaz o comprometimento da equipe, bem como a análise da matéria-prima segundo as regulamentações de controle microbiológico. Além disso, a implementação de normas mais rígidas e o melhor controle da matéria-prima e das formulações finais fazem com que a qualidade dos produtos manipulados pelas farmácias magistrais seja aumentada significativamente, favorecendo o consumidor na efetiva finalidade a que o produto objetiva atingir.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine / Desafios da nanotecnologia na permeação cosmética com cafeína

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Challenges of nanotechnology in cosmetic permeation with caffeine / Desafios da nanotecnologia na permeação cosmética com cafeína

The evolution of beauty market and personal care is constant in Brazil as well in the rest of the world. Technological advances have brought up nanotechnology to the cosmetological field, employing active principles at atoms enveloped by vesicles, in order to take the active principle precisely to the target tissue to optimize the results achieved because of the considerable ease to cross skin barriers. Manufacturing of nanotechnology cosmetics is confronted with low absorption capacity. One of the many active principle found in cosmetic industry is caffeine, a pseudoalkaloid from the xanthine group used as a stimulant with the mechanism of the lipolytic action. This active is widely used in a esthetics and cosmetics field in treatments involving dysfunctions such as localized fat and fibroedema geloid. To work out perfectly, the principle active need to interact and create a set of factors that includes lipolysis intensification. The caffeine encapsulation in gel-based nanocosmetics has the purpose of taking this active up to the adipocyte, the target cell, for mentioned dysfunctions treatment. Thus, we aim to present a review of how has been, the use of caffeine in the production of cosmetics.

A evolução do mercado de beleza e cuidados pessoais é constante no Brasil e no resto do mundo. Os avanços tecnológicos trouxeram a nanotecnologia para o campo cosmetológico, empregando princípios ativos em átomos envolvidos por vesículas, a fim de levar o princípio ativo precisamente ao tecido alvo para otimizar os resultados alcançados devido à considerável facilidade de atravessar barreiras cutâneas. A fabricação de cosméticos nanotecnológicos é confrontada com baixa capacidade de absorção. Um dos muitos princípios ativos encontrados na indústria cosmética é a cafeína, um pseudoalocalóide do grupo xantina usado como estimulante no mecanismo da ação lipolítica. Este ativo é amplamente utilizado no campo da estética e dos cosméticos em tratamentos que envolvem disfunções, como gordura localizada e fibroedema gelóide. Para funcionar perfeitamente, o princípio ativo precisa interagir e criar um conjunto de fatores que inclui a intensificação da lipólise. O encapsulamento de cafeína em nanocosméticos à base de gel tem o objetivo de levar esse ativo até o adipócito, a célula alvo, para o tratamento de disfunções mencionado. Assim, objetivamos apresentar uma revisão de como tem sido o uso de cafeína na produção de cosméticos.

Quality of cosmetics with active caffeine in cream and gel galenic bases prepared by compounding pharmacies / Qualidade de cosméticos com cafeína ativa em bases galênicas em creme e gel preparadas por farmácias de manipulação

As there is a great scarcity of studies on the importance of good compounding practices in the preparation of cosmetics, this study aimed to evaluate the quality control of cosmetics with active ingredient caffeine for the treatment of cellulite prepared by magistrals pharmacies. Microbiological analyzes, pH determination, color measurement, quantification of the percentage of the active ingredient caffeine and viscosity in creams and gels with 5% of the active ingredient caffeine were performed. In the microbiological analysis, the presence of molds and yeasts was verified above the permitted level according to the Brazilian pharmacopoeia. The pH decreased over time, contributing to the formulations becoming more acidic. In the color parameters, it was found that pharmacy F4 showed a brownish color, both for the gel and for the cream. The percentage of caffeine was within specifications in all formulations and the viscosity remained unchanged during the shelf life of the samples. It is important that the compounding pharmacies demand more effectively the commitment of the team, as well as the analysis of the raw material according to the microbiological control regulations to translate into the quality of the products prepared by the pharmacies and favor the consumer in the effective objective that the product you want to achieve.

Como há uma grande escassez de estudos sobre a importância de boas práticas de manipulação na elaboração de cosméticos, o presente estudo teve como objetivo avaliar o controle de qualidade de cosméticos com princípio ativo cafeína para o tratamento de celulite, elaborados por farmácias de manipulação de Campo Mourão. Foram realizadas análises microbiológicas, determinação do pH, mensuração da coloração, quantificação da porcentagem do princípio ativo cafeína e viscosidade em cremes e geís com 5% do princípio ativo cafeína. Nas análises microbiológicas foi verificada a presença de bolores e leveduras acima do pemitido segundo a farmacopéia brasileira. O pH diminuiu ao longo do tempo, contribuindo para que as formulações ficassem mais ácidas. Nos parâmetros de cor averiguou-se que a farmácia F4 apresentou uma coloração amarronzada, tanto para o gel quanto para o creme. A porcentagem de cafeína estava dentro das especificações em todas as formulações e a viscosidade se manteve inalterada durante o prazo de validade das amostras. Com o propósito de um melhor preparo magistral é importante que as farmácias de manipulação exijam de forma mais eficaz o comprometimento da equipe, bem como a análise da matéria-prima segundo as regulamentações de controle microbiológico. Além disso, a implementação de normas mais rígidas e o melhor controle da matéria-prima e das formulações finais fazem com que a qualidade dos produtos manipulados pelas farmácias magistrais seja aumentada significativamente, favorecendo o consumidor na efetiva finalidade a que o produto objetiva atingir.

Research progress of natural collagen peptides and its skincare efficacy / 生物医学工程学杂志

Natural collagen peptides are collagen hydrolysates. Because of their unique physicochemical properties and excellent biological activities, collagen peptides have been a research hotspot of cosmetic raw materials development and skincare efficacy improvement. Combined with the needs of the skincare efficacy and the development trends of cosmetics, the extraction methods and their structural characteristics of natural collagen peptides were summarized in detail. The applications and its research progress in skincare efficacy of collagen peptides, such as moisturizing and anti-wrinkle, trophism and anti-aging, filling and skin regeneration were expressed with emphasis. Finally, the development and practical applications in cosmetics of natural collagen peptides were adequately prospected.

Formaldehyde analysis of seized cosmetic products by HS-GC-MS of methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane, and ethylal derivatives

Abstract Formaldehyde is a carcinogenic compound used as preservative in cosmetic products. In this study, a derivatization procedure using MeOH, EtOH and HCl (25:25:1), and incubation at 60ºC for 4 hours was optimized, and the derivatized products - methylal, ethoxymethoxymethane (EMM), and ethylal - were directly analyzed by headspace-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS-GC-MS) to determine formaldehyde concentrations. The validated method provided good linearity of the standard curve, selectivity, recovery (89.6-106.6%), repeatability, and intermediate precision (RSD < 12%), with an LOD of 0.0015% and an LOQ of 0.005% for all derivatized analytes. The validated method showed to be fast, clean, and easy to implement in a laboratory. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first reported HS-GC-MS procedure to determine formaldehyde as methylal, ethylal, and EMM as derivatized compounds. The method was satisfactorily applied for the analysis of nine hair-straightener cream samples seized by the Civil Police of the Federal District, Brazil. Eight samples contained formaldehyde, at levels ranging from 0.33 to 4.02 %, higher than the legal levels, indicating the need to control the levels of this toxic compound in cosmetic products

In vitro evaluation of the cytotoxicity and eye irritation potential of preservatives widely used in cosmetics

Abstract The consumption of cosmetics has been increasing every year and is expected to reach $675 billion by 2020 at an estimated growth rate of 6.4% per year. Exposure to skin irritants is the major cause of non-immunological inflammation of the skin. Therefore, the safety evaluation of cosmetic preservatives should be increased. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity as the viability endpoint and the eye irritation potential of preservatives used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity assays were performed using MTT and NRU in human keratinocytes (HaCaT), human dermal fibroblasts, adult (HDFa), and human hepatoma cells (HepG2). The eye irritation potential was evaluated using the Hen's Egg Test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The evaluated preservatives were methylparaben (MP), propylparaben (PP), phenoxyethanol (PE), and a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMI/MI). All preservatives showed cytotoxic potential within the permitted concentrations for use in cosmetic products. In the HET-CAM test, PE and CMI/MI, MP, and PP were classified as severe, moderate, and poor irritants, respectively. Our results indicate that proper safety evaluations are required to ensure the beneficial properties of preservatives on cosmetic products without exceeding exposure levels that would result in adverse health effects for consumers.

Óleo essencial de Pataqueira (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) como conservante natural em Cosméticos / Pataqueira essential oil (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) as a natural preservative in cosmetics

Um dos principais grupos de conservantes utilizados na maioria dos cosméticos são os parabenos que em muitos estudos demonstraram que podem provocar reações alérgicas como dermatite de contato, entre outras sensibilizações cutâneas. A fim de minimizar esses problemas, a indústria está produzindo cosméticos livres de conservantes ou de origem natural e em associações aos sintéticos. Dentre os conservantes naturais utilizados, podemos citar os óleos essenciais como uma alternativa viável. Diante deste contexto o presente trabalho visa avaliar experimentalmente o potencial antimicrobiano do óleo essencial de Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl., conhecida popularmente como pataqueira, o efeito de sua associação com parabenos e de sua eficácia como conservante em bases cosméticas. A composição do óleo essencial foi avaliada, indicando que este é composto em sua maior parte por terpenos, tendo éter metílico do timol (39,2%), timol (33,8 %) e α-felandreno (15,9%) como compostos majoritários. A atividade antimicrobiana do óleo essencial e do timol foi acessada através da concentração inibitória mínima (CIM), cujos resultados em µg/mL para o óleo essencial e o timol foram respectivamente: Staphylococcus aureus 650,70 e 284,90, Escherichia coli 721,53 e 271,20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748,00 e > 2.000, Burkholderia cepacia 833,03 e 1.077,70, Candida albicans 521,43 e 172,61 e Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 e 400. O efeito sinérgico da associação do óleo essencial com os parabenos foi realizado através de um delineamento experimental centroide simplex para uma mistura de metilparabeno, propilparabeno e óleo essencial frente aos mesmos micro-organismos utilizados na determinação da atividade antimicrobiana. As concentrações ideais obtidas pela análise estatística para cada componente em µg/mL foram: 1120 para o metilparabeno, 350 para o propilparabeno e 675 para o óleo essencial. O teste de eficácia do sistema conservante em formulação cosmética foi efetuado empregando as concentrações ideais e mais duas concentrações superiores e uma abaixo do ideal. Para todas as cepas microbianas desafiadas o resultado do teste foi de redução total da carga microbiana inoculada nos sete dias de ensaio e nenhum aumento até o vigésimo oitavo dia o que demonstra a eficácia da associação do óleo essencial com os conservantes sintéticos. O óleo essencial de C. scoparioides apresentou um potencial antimicrobiano importante tanto sozinho como em associação com conservantes sintéticos. Estes resultados sugerem que esse óleo pode ser usado para compor um sistema conservante para formulações cosméticas contendo uma menor quantidade de sintéticos

One of the main groups of preservatives used in most cosmetics are parabens, that many studies have shown that they can cause allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis, among other skin sensitizations. To minimize these problems, the industry is producing cosmetics preservative free or using natural products instead and their combination with the synthetics. Among the natural preservatives used, we can mention essential oils as a viable alternative. In this context, the present work aims to experimentally evaluate the antimicrobial potential of the Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl. essential oil, popularly known as pataqueira, the effect of its association with parabens and its effectiveness as a preservative in cosmetic bases. The essential oil composition was analyzed, indicating that it is composed mostly of terpenes, with thymol methyl ether (39.2%), thymol (33.8%) and -phelandrene (15.9%) as major compounds. The antimicrobial activity of essential oil and thymol was accessed through the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), whose results in µg/mL for essential oil and thymol were respectively: Staphylococcus aureus 650.70 and 284.90, Escherichia coli 721, 53 and 271.20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748.00 and > 2,000, Burkholderia cepacia 833.03 and 1,077.70, Candida albicans 521.43 and 172.61 and Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 and 400. The synergistic effect of the association of essential oil with parabens was performed through a centroid simplex experimental design for a mixture of methylparaben, propylparaben and essential oil against the same microorganisms used in the antimicrobial activity evaluation The ideal concentrations obtained by statistical analysis for each component in µg/mL were: 1120 for methylparaben, 350 for propylparaben and 675 for essential oil. The effectiveness test of the preservative system in cosmetic formulation was carried out using the ideal concentrations plus two higher concentrations and one below the ideal. For all challenged microbial strains, the test result was a total reduction of the inoculated microbial load in the seven days of testing and no increase until the twenty-eighth day, which demonstrates the effectiveness of the association of essential oil with synthetic preservatives. C. scoparioides essential oil showed an important antimicrobial potential both alone and in association with parabens. These results demonstrated that it can be used to compose a preservative system for cosmetic formulations containing lower amounts of synthetics

Physicochemical characterization and cosmetic applications of Passiflora nitida Kunth leaf extract

Abstract Passiflora nitida Kunth, an Amazonian Passiflora species, is little studied, although the specie's high biological potential. Herein the plant's pharmacognostic characterization, extract production, antioxidant potential evaluation, and application of this extract in cosmetic products is reported. The physical chemical parameters analyzed were particle size by sieve analysis, loss through drying, extractive yield, total ash content, laser granulometry, specific surface area and pore diameter (SBET), differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetry (TG), and wave dispersive X-Ray fluorescence (WDXRF). Total phenol/flavonoid content, LC-MS/MS analysis, DPPH and ABTS antioxidant radical assays, cytotoxicity, melanin, and tyrosinase inhibition in melanocytes test provided evidence to determine the content of the major constituent. P. nitida dry extract provided a fine powder with mesopores determined by SBET, with the TG curve showing five stages of mass loss. The antioxidant potential ranged between 23.5-31.5 mg∙mL-1 and tyrosinase inhibition between 400-654 µg∙mL-1. The species presented an antimelanogenic effect and an inhibitory activity of cellular tyrosinase (26.6%) at 25 µg/mL. The LC-MS/MS analysis of the spray-dried extract displayed the main and minor phenolic compounds constituting this sample. The results indicate that P. nitida extract has promising features for the development of cosmetic formulations

A review of alternative methods to the use of animals in safety evaluation of cosmetics

ABSTRACT Alternative methods to the use of animals in research have been a global trend, mainly after the publication of the 3R's principle (Replacement, Reduction, and Refinement), proposed by Russel and Burch. In the cosmetic sector, safety and efficacy assessments using animals have generated controversial debates. For this reason, in vitro research techniques are widely used to assess acute toxicity; corrosivity and irritation; skin sensitization; dermal and percutaneous absorption; repeated dose toxicity; reproductive toxicity; mutagenicity and genotoxicity; carcinogenicity; toxicokinetic studies; photo-induced toxicity; and human data. Although there are many methodologies described, validated, and widely used in the cosmetic area, the evaluation of the safety of cosmetic ingredients and products is still an expanding field. It needs global collaboration among regulatory agencies, universities, and industry, to meet several unmet needs in the fields of sensitization, carcinogenicity, systemic action, among other issues involving safety of users of cosmetic products. This review article will cover the currently most relevant in vitro models regarding irritation, corrosion, sensitization, mutagenicity, genotoxicity, and phototoxicity, to help to choose the most appropriate test for evaluating the safety and toxicity of cosmetic ingredients and products.

Difusão e propaganda sobre antienvelhecimento na mídia brasileira: um estudo de representações sociais / Diffusion and propaganda about anti-aging in brazilian media: a study of social representations / Difusión y propaganda sobre el antienvejecimiento en los medios de comunicación brasileños: un estudio de las representaciones sociales

Esta pesquisa buscou mapear conteúdos relativos ao antienvelhecimento em revistas de grande circulação e no noticiário brasileiro, entre 1º de janeiro de 2016 e 31 de dezembro de 2019. Foram investigadas as revistas Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP e Carbono Uomo. Houve ainda coleta no portal de notícias G1, da Rede Globo de Televisão, voltado ao público geral. Foram criados dois corpora distintos formados pelos conteúdos do G1 e das revistas que, então, foram submetidos à Classificação Hierárquica Descendente pelo software IRaMuTeQ, dando origem a dois subcorpora e quatro classes para cada um. Os resultados apontam uma forte tendência mercadológica nas revistas, que buscam conduzir os leitores ao consumo de produtos e à realização de procedimentos estéticos. Por outro lado, as notícias jornalísticas apregoam um modelo de vida mais saudável como principal prática antienvelhecimento, ao mesmo tempo que alertam sobre os riscos envolvidos nos procedimentos e produtos estéticos irregulares. Em geral, o conteúdo das revistas dissipa representações sociais que idealizam um padrão de beleza do corpo jovial, associando a velhice à fealdade, enquanto o do portal de notícias G1 voltam-se à saúde e longevidade.(AU)

This survey aimed to map anti-aging content, in magazines with wide circulation and also in Brazilian news, between January 1, 2016 and December 31, 2019. Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP and Carbono Uomo magazines were studied. News were also collected from the G1 news portal, from Globo television network, aimed at the general audience. Two distinct corpora formed by the contents of the G1 and the magazines were created, which were then submitted to the Descending Hierarchical Classification, by the IRaMuTeQ software, leading to two subcorpora and four classes for each. The results show a strong market orientation in the magazines, which aim to lead readers to purchase products and undertake aesthetic procedures. The news reports, on the other way, promote a healthier life model as the main anti-aging practice, while warning about the risks involved in irregular aesthetic procedures and products. In general, the content of the magazines spreads social representations which idealize a pattern of beauty of a young body, connecting old age with ugliness, whereas that of the G1 news portal are focused on health and longevity.(AU)

Esta iniciativa buscó mapear material de antienvejecimiento, en revistas de gran tirada y en las noticias de Brasil, entre el 1 de enero de 2016 y el 31 de diciembre de 2019. Se analizaron las revistas Claudia, Boa Forma, VIP y Carbono Uomo. También se recogieron noticias del sitio de noticias G1 y de la red de televisión Globo, ambas dirigidas al público en general. Se crearon dos corpora distintos formados por el contenido del G1 y de las revistas, que luego fueron sometidos a la Clasificación Jerárquica Descendente, por el software IRaMuTeQ, dando lugar a dos subcorpora y cuatro clases para cada uno de los corpora. Los resultados señalan una fuerte orientación del mercado de promoción en las revistas, que buscan llevar a los lectores a consumir productos y realizar procedimientos estéticos. En cambio, las noticias periodísticas difunden un modelo de vida más saludable como la principal práctica antienvejecimiento, mientras que al mismo tiempo advierten sobre los riesgos que implican los procedimientos irregulares y los productos estéticos. De forma general, el contenido de las revistas difunde representaciones sociales que idealizan un estándar de belleza del cuerpo joven, asociando la vejez con la fealdad, mientras que el del portal de noticias G1 se orienta a la salud y la longevidad.(AU)

Antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of dihydroquercetin esters

Abstract Flavonoids display various beneficial biological properties, such as antioxidant activity and low cytotoxicity, which make them useful ingredients in foods, pharmaceuticals, and functional cosmetics. In particular, dihydroquercetin (DHQ) is found in various forms, and its derivatives exhibit interesting biological properties. Herein, we report the synthesis of acetylated and butyrylated dihydroquercetin derivatives and their antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. The DHQ derivatives were identified using 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies and high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry. The chemical stabilities of the acetylated dihydroquercetin derivatives were found to depend on the number of acetate groups, with 3,3',4',4,7-pentaacetyldihydroquercetin found to be the most stable acetylated dihydroquercetin. Furthermore, 7,3',4'-triacetyl- dihydroquercetin exhibited potent antioxidant activity, with an IC50 of 56.67 ± 4.79 µg/mL in the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay, with DHQ exhibiting a value of 32.41 ± 3.35 µg/mL. The reactive-oxygen-species-scavenging activity of 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin was highest among the esters in the ferric reducing ability of plasma assay, but lower than that of DHQ. Overall, both DHQ and 7,3',4'-triacetyldihydroquercetin exhibited antimicrobial behavior against S. aureus and P. acnes using the paper disc assay. DHQ displayed a higher antimicrobial activity, with minimum inhibitory concentrations of 625 µg/mL (P. acnes), 2,500 µg/mL (S. aureus), and 5,000 µg/mL (E. coli). DHQ and acetylated dihydroquercetins are potentially useful as complex antioxidant and antimicrobial materials

Quantifying the inovation of cosmetic formulations that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as fotoprotective bioactives / Quantificando a inovação de formulações cosméticas que contêm extratos de frutas ricas em substâncias fenólicas como bioativos fotoprotetivos

Introduction: sunscreen is a cosmetic used to protect human skin from the deleterious effects of UV radiation and thus minimize the risks of developing skin cancer. Extracts produced from fruits, such as Abiu, Guava, Rambutan and Grape, have significant concentrations of chromophores and phenolic substances that have the ability to absorb UV light and neutralize free radicals. The production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for Brazilian industry and could reduce the cost of production, given the large existing biodiversity in the country. Objectives: carry out a patent search for formulations and cosmetic products that contains phenolic rich fruit extracts as photoprotective and antioxidant bioactives. Methodology: a survey of patents was carried out in the database of the National Institute of Intellectual Property (INPI) and the European Patent Office (EPO), covering a time period between 2008 and 2018, using a combination of keywords related to herbal cosmetics and sunscreens. Results: this research identifies a significant number of patents related to plant extract in association with sunscreen product, however, no patent filings were identified for cosmetic products containing extracts of the evaluated fruits, either alone or in combination, for photoprotective and antioxidant purposes. Conclusion: the Brazilian and international market for sun care products moves millions to billions of dollars annually and have a significant annual growth prospect. Considering the great biodiversity existing in the country, the production of cosmetics from naturally occurring substances with such activities will be of great importance for the Brazilian industrial sector.

Introdução: os filtros solares são cosméticos usados para proteger a pele humana dos efeitos deletérios da radiação UV e assim, minimizar os riscos de desenvolvimento de câncer de pele. Extratos produzidos a partir de frutos, como Abiu, Goiaba, Rambutan e Uva, têm concentrações significativas de cromóforos e substâncias fenólicas que têm a capacidade de absorver a radiação UV e neutralizar os radicais livres. A produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para a indústria brasileira e poderá reduzir o custo de produção, dada a grande biodiversidade existente no país. Objetivos: realizar uma busca de registros de patentes de formulações e produtos cosméticos que contêm extratos de frutos ricos em fenólicos como bioativos fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Metodologia: foi realizado um levantamento de patentes no banco de dados do Instituto Nacional de Propriedade Intelectual (INPI) e do Escritório Europeu de Patentes (EPO), abrangendo um período de tempo entre 2008 e 2018, utilizando uma combinação de palavras-chave relacionadas a cosméticos à base de plantas e protetores solares. Resultados: esta pesquisa identificou um número significativo de patentes relacionadas ao extrato de plantas em associação ao produto protetor solar, no entanto, não foram identificados pedidos de patente para produtos cosméticos que contenham extratos das frutas avaliadas, isoladamente ou em combinação, para fins fotoprotetores e antioxidantes. Conclusão: o mercado brasileiro e internacional de produtos de proteção solar movimenta milhões a bilhões de dólares anualmente e tem a perspectiva de crescimento anual significativa. Considerando a grande biodiversidade existente no país, a produção de cosméticos a partir de substâncias naturais com essas atividades será de grande importância para o setor industrial brasileiro.

Prurit généralisé sine materia en dermatologie à Cotonou (Bénin) / Generalized sine materia pruritus in dermatology in Cotonou

Introduction. Le prurit généralisé sine materia peut altérer la qualité de vie des patients. L'objectif de cette étude était d'en documenter les caractéristiques épidémiologiques, cliniques et étiologiques en dermatologie à Cotonou. Méthodes.Une étude rétrospective et descriptive a été réalisée dans le service de dermatologie du Centre National Hospitalier et Universitaire de Cotonou du 1er janvier 2009 au 31 décembre 2018. Elle a inclus tous les patients chez qui le diagnostic de prurit généralisé sine materia était retenu sur la base d'arguments cliniques. En cas d'orientation clinique, un examen paraclinique à visée étiologique était demandé. Résultats.La prévalence du prurit généralisé sine materia était de 1,2% (126 cas/10627 consultants). Les adultes jeunes de 31-50 ans (34,1%) et les sujets âgés de plus de 60 ans (15,1%) étaient les plus atteints. La sex-ratio était de 1,1. Le prurit était le plus souvent chronique (80,2%), d'intensité légère à modérée (83,3%), intermittent (71,4%) et sans horaire (77,8%). Les principales étiologies retrouvées étaient l'eau (32,5%), les savons irritants (30,2%), la xérose cutanée (18,3%), la sénescence (12,7%). Les maladies internes ont été retrouvées dans 28,6% des cas. Dans 4% des cas, aucune étiologie n'a été retrouvée. Conclusion. Le prurit généralisé sine materia en dermatologie à Cotonou était plus fréquent chez les adultes jeunes et les sujets âgés. Les étiologies étaient dominées par les facteurs environnementaux et les anomalies physiologiques cutanées.

Antilipoperoxidative and anti-inflammatory efficacy of multifunctional sunscreens containing ferulic acid

Unprotected chronic exposure to ultraviolet radiation generates many harmful effects to human skin and UV filters are essential to health, however, traditional sunscreens do not provide enough protection against cutaneous oxidative stress, a process amplified by UV radiation. Therefore, is been proposed the development of multifunctional photoprotective formulations, acting in the absorption/reflection of UV radiation and assisting in cutaneous homeostasis. In the present study, ferulic acid is used in conjunction with two sunscreens, bemotrizinol and ethylhexyl triazone, for the determination of biosafety and efficacy methods, using techniques that better elucidate the effects of ferulic acid. Skin permeation assays were performed by applying a formulation containing the three substances in the stratum corneum of volunteers, which were removed by the tape stripping method (ex vivo) with follow quantification by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The test was able to evaluate the penetration depth of the substances, characterizing them. In addition, the simultaneous quantification of the three substances was performed by a single and fast method, facilitating their analysis and improving the technique. Also, TBARS (thiobarbituric acid reactive substances) assays were performed in stratum corneum removed by tape stripping (ex vivo), evaluating the potential of cutaneous lipid peroxidation, with or without ferulic acid. To date, it is the first time that TBARS method is used to characterize the stratum corneum (ex vivo) and quantified by HPLC. The protocol developed may aid in the efficacy of antioxidant agents in studies aimed at elucidating the level of lipid peroxidation caused by drugs and cosmetics, and even in carrying out baseline studies characterizing different ethnicities and genders. As last, an anti-inflammatory in vivo assay with Laser Doppler flowmetry equipment was used to compare the sunscreen formulation with or without ferulic acid. Data indicated that the antioxidant reduced the angular coefficient of the perfusion units, mitigating the inflammatory effects. Furthermore, a significant difference was found between the genders, suggesting a more pronounced inflammatory reaction in women. Ferulic acid proved to be a valuable resource, besides being safe and raise the SPF of sunscreens, it also mitigates the effects of inflammation

A exposição crônica desprotegida à radiação ultravioleta (UV) contribui para o desenvolvimento de câncer de pele e os filtros solares são relevantes para evitar tais efeitos prejudiciais, porém, os protetores solares tradicionais não geram proteção suficiente contra o estresse oxidativo cutâneo. Logo, espera-se o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras multifuncionais, atuando não somente na absorção e/ou reflexão da radiação UV, mas, também, auxiliando na homeostase cutânea, com presença de agentes antioxidantes. No presente estudo foi utilizado o ácido ferúlico conjuntamente com dois filtros solares, o bemotrizinol e a triazona de octila, para determinação de métodos de segurança e eficácia, utilizando técnicas que melhor elucidem e comprovem os efeitos do ácido ferúlico. Foram realizados ensaios de permeação cutânea pela aplicação tópica de formulação contendo as três substâncias em voluntários, sendo o estrato córneo retirado pelo método de tape stripping (ex vivo) com subsequente quantificação por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência (CLAE). O ensaio pôde avaliar a profundidade de penetração das substâncias, caracterizando-as. Ademais, a quantificação simultânea das três substâncias foi efetuada por método único e rápido, facilitando análise com aprimoramento da técnica. Em adição, foi realizado ensaios de TBARS (substâncias reativas ao ácido tiobarbitúrico) em estrato córneo removido por tape stripping (ex vivo), para avaliar o potencial de peroxidação lipídica cutânea, contendo ou não o ácido ferúlico. Até o presente momento, é a primeira vez que o método TBARS é utilizado para caracterização do estrato córneo (ex vivo) e quantificada por CLAE. O protocolo desenvolvido pode auxiliar na eficácia de agentes antioxidantes, em estudos que visam elucidar o nível de peroxidação lipídica causada por medicamentos e cosméticos e, até mesmo, na realização de estudos de base, caracterizando etnias e gêneros. Ademais, um ensaio anti-inflamatório in vivo com equipamento de fluxometria Laser Doppler foi utilizado para comparar a formulação fotoprotetora com ou sem ácido ferúlico. Os dados indicaram que o antioxidante reduziu o coeficiente angular das unidades de perfusão, mitigando os efeitos inflamatórios. Ainda, foi identificada diferença entre os gêneros, sugerindo reação inflamatória mais pronunciada em mulheres. O ácido ferúlico provou ser um recurso valioso, além de ser seguro e elevar o FPS dos fotoprotetores, também atenuando os efeitos da inflamação